Walking amongst the famous barrels at Muga
La Rioja maintains the romance and charm of a small, rural town, while entertaining some of the most talented wine makers in the world. Home to over 600 wineries, crafting bold, earthy red wines of the Tempranillo, Grenache, and Graciano variety, at a remarkably reasonable price, it is not hard to see why the region is renowned. And because it is controlled by the DOC, or Denominación de Origen, it is the most highly regulated wine in the world, which means you will almost never taste a bad bottle.
So how is one to decide where to taste amazing red wine in Rioja, given all the options? Luckily, we did some research for you.
A little research amongst the vines? Wine not…Photo by Alexis Campanella
Some of the most highly regarded wineries in the region are centered around the town of Haro. After extensive field work, you’ll find my favorites below:
- MUGA – arguably one of the most accessible in the U.S. If you’re low on suitcase room, buy this one online and have it shipped home. They are also one of the last wineries in the region to still have their own barrel maker in house. If you can, get your hands on their Japanese cherry blossom rose, which is nearly impossible to find outside of Spain and is crisp and delicious.
The tasting room sits in the building that used to house the family in the 1800s. - CONTADOR – the owner, Benjamin Romeo, is a huge fan of Western movies, especially those starring Clint Eastwood, so when he designed the logo for his wine, “Predicador,” he chose Eastwood’s preacher hat in the movie, Pale Rider. This is one of the underrated, but spectacular finds in the region, located in San Vicente de la Sonsierra.
- LOPEZ DE HEREDIA – one of the oldest wineries in the region, its Tondonia vineyard wine is incredibly unique, bold, and not to be missed
Pro tip: rock red lips and the closed-mouth smile to avoid looking like the Purple People-Eater when in red wine country. Photo by Deborah Read.
Inside the barrel-making room at Lopez de Heredia. If you only take a few tours during your tasting, I’d highly recommend this one. They’ll explain the incredibly old-school process down to how they use egg whites to clarify the fermenting wine.
- CONTINO – this rustic and adorable winery is renowned in the area for both its décor and its tastings.
Wander into the courtyard and step back in time while sipping delicious, bold reds.
- VIÑA REAL– perched high above Contino, their tasting pavilion offers not only great wine, but also spectacular views.
Step up to the tasting platform and you can sip while you view the beautiful courtyard and vines of Contino or catch an epic sunset.
- RODA – These are the droids you’re looking for. With names like Roda, Roda I, and retired Roda II (hint – Roda is the same recipe as the retired Roda II), these futuristic sounding wines are out of this world. Be sure to get your hands on the Cirsion, which currently only comes in half bottles or magnums, but is worth the inconvenience.
- LA RIOJA ALTA – This elegant winery in Haro makes a delicious 2007 and 2008 Reserva that is a must-taste.
Sampling some Gran Reservas at the beautiful Rioja Alta winery
- ONTAÑÓN – Ontañón, a gorgeous, family-owned winery based in Quel, about an hour outside of Logroño, is one of the more accessible Rioja wines for US consumers. While it’s not quite as easy to find as Muga, it’s worth the hunt. They have a bodega in Logroño and Quel, but their real crowning gem is the mountain-top tasting pergola amongst their Quel vineyards. Enjoying a glass of their red, white, and rose with some jamón iberico on a crisp day in the vineyards was one of the highlights of my time in Rioja.
Ontañón’s stunning tasting pavilion offers unparalleled views of Quel below.
Head over to these caves outside of Quel to sip gorgeous amber rosés, crisp whites, and earthy reds. - VIVANCO – This renowned wine museum with spectacular views of the small town of Briones, also makes its own wine and it’s quite tasty wine at that. Their Graciano is a rare and delicious bottle worth the small splurge.
The gorgeous vineyards of Vivanco house a small church and delicious Graciano and Tempranillo varietals.
Vivanco’s vineyards gaze right upon the medieval town of Briones, whose church bell tower marks the skyline.
- EGUREN UGARTE– This family owned and operated establishment has the most character of just about any winery in the area with its kilometers of caves handmade by the octogenarian patriarch and winemaker, Vitorino Eguren Ugarte. His love for his family and wife of over 50 years, Mercedes, is as near and dear to him as his delicious wines are.
Every structure at Eguren Ugarte was hand-built with the help of the winemaker, Vitorino, including the revolving tower that caps the winery’s bodega.
Roam the grounds with a glass in hand and take in the rolling hills and impressive wine caves.
The new caves, seen here, and the old caves were all handmade by Vitorino and extend for over a kilometer beneath the bodega.
- YSIOS – A feat of architecture, this gorgeous Calatrava building is as big of a draw as the wine.
The architecture alone makes this winery worth the visit.
- BAIGORRI – The stunning views from the tasting room, designed by Basque architect, Iñaki Aspiazu, and the unique multi-story gravity pump system make this winery a Rioja gem.
The view from Baigorri’s tasting room
In the bowels of Baigorri
- MARQUÉS DE RISCAL – Another architectural gem, the Frank Gehry creation is both a hotel and a fabulous winery. Check out my post on where to stay in Rioja if you’re interested in whether or not this hotel and bodega makes its mark on both categories.
While wine is queen in Rioja, architecture is king and Riscal is certainly no exception.
Views from the Gehry suite balcony showcase old-world beauty.
Now that you know where to taste amazing red wine in Rioja, it’s time to find out what else you can do while you’re there.
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