WHERE TO EAT, DRINK & PLAY IN NEW ORLEANS

New Orleans is easily the capital of some of the best, and most glutinous, eating and drinking in the United States, but it can be difficult to discern the worthwhile comfort food from the lard-laden wannabes and the local haunts from, well…Pat O’Briens. So we’ve done some difficult field research, which included stuffing our faces for nearly a week in The Big Easy, so we can confidently tell you where to eat, drink, and play in New Orleans.

 

WHERE TO EAT 

COCHON – As far as food goes, the best overall meal I had in the city was easily at Cochon. The wood-fired oysters with garlic chili butter are mind-blowing and sport an ombre of red and orange akin only to a blood moon. They expertly walk the tightrope between delectable and rich that oysters Rockefeller fail at and are certainly the star of the show. Even the table bread and sweet butter is difficult to set aside. I recommend the fried alligator with garlic chili mayonnaise, roasted beet salad with alligator pear, macaroni and cheese casserole, and the roasted winter squash with toasted seeds as sides. Otherwise, load up on meats and get your hands on a bold, peppery red wine.

 

KATIE’S RESTAURANT – Katie’s, a family owned and operated restaurant, opened in the 1980s in mid-city as a lunch joint. Today, it thrives at just that – lunch and brunch. And the best dish? The crawfish beignet. This unassuming spot is certainly casual, but don’t let that fool you. It is the perfect place to stuff yourself with comfort food midday.

CAFE DU MONDE – Cafe Du Monde is easily the most famous cafe in Louisiana and it’s for good reason. Open 24 hours a day, this retro cafe in the French quarter does two things and it does those two things well: beignets and chicory coffee. The warm, gooey, doughy, beignets, a French donut, are a game changer. Bring cash and venture inside if you don’t want to wait for the patio. Pro tip: do not wear black; you’ll leave covered in more powdered sugar than a box of Hostess.

 

DRAGO’S – Open since the 1960s, Drago’s is somewhat of downtown staple in New Orleans, though it is overlooked too often on lists of best eats. Pop by for the charbroiled oysters and stay for the mom-and-pop feel.

BRENNAN’S – The pastel pink walls will tell you that you’ve arrived to the right place. Venture inside and explore the various themed, colored rooms upstairs, the green patio dotted with mosaic-topped tables, and the lattice and elaborately painted murals on the walls of the French-influenced main dining room. Once you’re seated, order one of their many wines and the banana’s foster. As the restaurant where the flambéed delight was invented, it is still the reigning foster king and it specializes in the table side preparation, which remains a sight to be seen.

 

COMMANDERS PALACE – Commander’s Palace is a veritable institution in New Orleans, established in the late 1800s, and sporting a revolving door of renown chefs, including Emeril Lagasse. While they’re known for their Creole fare, dinner there leaves much to be desired. Instead, head there for an unforgettable Sunday brunch with $0.25 martinis and much less pomp and circumstance.

SURREY’S CAFE & JUICE BAR – Surrey’s has two locations in New Orleans, but I prefer the Magazine Street spot. The down-home vibe and vinyl-covered chairs holding locals sipping pot-brewed java makes it instantly feel like your everyday corner breakfast spot, completely devoid of pretension, but not flavor. Order the biscuits with sausage gravy and the mushroom gravy version for your vegetarian friend – yes, that’s right, they have a vegetarian version of sausage gravy. They also have juices to provide some much-needed nutrients during your marathon carbo-loading session in the city.

ST. ROCH STREET MARKET – Trying to satisfy a diverse group of eaters on your trip? The St. Roch Street Market is an easy solution. The high-ceilings and columns in the market are dotted with quite a few booths representing different restaurants, to meet all your casual dining needs. They have everything from healthy grain, vegetable, and avocado bowls to delicious coffee, oysters and biscuits and gravy. Can you tell I like biscuits and gravy?

 

MOJO COFFEE – With 2 locations in New Orleans, this small-batch coffee roaster makes some of the most delicious brew in the city. If you’re going to be eating (and drinking) your way through The Big Easy, you’re going to be grateful for some java to fight off the imminent hangovers.

CENTRAL GROCERY – While there are now many muffulettas in the city, you cannot contest that the original came from the Central Grocery. This unassuming small market still sells this Sicilian-inspired sandwich, which is comprised of olive salad, mortadella, salami, Swiss cheese, ham, and provolone cheese.

WHERE TO DRINK

HOT TIN ROOFTOP BAR – Located in the newly renovated Pontchartrain Hotel, this rooftop bar is much cooler than a cat on a hot tin roof, but it has all the kitsch and decor of the colloquialism’s era. If you like spicy beverages, try the aptly named “Some Like It Hot,” which sports tequila, mezcal, mango, lime, cherry and habanero. Grab a seat in a peacock chair, next to a netted stocking-clothed leg lamp, and give the crowd your best Marilyn, while a local DJ spins and the fog rolls in over the city below.

LAFITTE’S BLACKSMITH SHOP –  This small, iconic bar immediately transports you back to its inception in the 1700s, with its dark and dingy interior, wrap-around bar, shadowed corners, and central fireplace. As the longest consecutively serving bar in the US (prohibition, shmo-hibition), and a supposedly haunted joint, this stop is all about atmosphere. They may not have a great wine selection, but you’re kidding yourself if you think that’s a reason to pass this one up.

THE OLD ABSINTHE HOUSE – The old absinthe bar has an insane selection of absinthe drinks and is right on Bourbon Street. While I would normally advise staying away from Bourbon St at all costs, this is THE exception. Saddle up to the dark, sticky bar, and try absinthe as it was prepared in the 1800s or sample an imported variety you’ve never seen before. The anise-heavy taste isn’t for everyone, but the experience should be.

SAZERAC BAR – Appropriately named for its mixology invention and the “official cocktail of New Orleans,” having a Sazerac at the Sazerac Bar is something everyone should tick off their Big Easy bucket list.  Founded in 1893 and housed inside the swanky Roosevelt Hotel, this beautiful, minimalist bar attracts quite a different crowd than your average NOLA party-goers…and for good reason.

BAYOU BEER GARDEN – If you’re looking for simple, casual, and a great, sprawling patio, look no further than Bayou Beer Garden. This bar is for beer lovers and friends who actually want to be able to hear each other talk over a drink.

EFFERVESCENCE – When you’re in the mood for a bit of pageantry, head on over to Effervescence. This sparkling wine bar is quite literally carved out of white marble and is what bachelorette party brunch dreams are made of. Sparkling rosé beside a rose-encircled water feature? Don’t mind if I do!

CAROUSEL BAR – One of the most visually entrancing and unique bars in the city, and perhaps ever, the Carousel Bar, inside the Monteleone Hotel, has been around for over 60 years. This circular bar is entirely centered around a giant early 20th century carousel that turns every 15 minutes.

WHERE TO PLAY 

FRENCHMEN STREET – Forgo Bourbon Street in favor of Frenchmen Street for your night on the town. Your objective should be drinks and amazing live music, with a side of night market finds and delicious street food. Read on for some suggested Frenchmen St. haunts.

• SPOTTED CAT – The Spotted Cat is an intimate live music venue, reminiscent of French bars from the early 20th century. Pack in to grab a glass of wine and watch live jazz a few feet away.
• d.b.a. – This club is a bit classier than some of the surrounding joints and always features live music.
• SNUG HARBOR – Inside a renovated 1800s storefront, Snug Harbor offers dinner and live music every day of the week with 3 different rooms to choose from (dining room, bar, music room).
• CAFE NEGRIL – Want to hear live reggae music? This is your spot. Step through the doors and be transported to the Caribbean.
• BLUE NILE – This is the premiere jazz venue on Frenchmen and the home of all acts funk, blues, soul, and jazz.

PRESERVATION HALL – Still want to check out the nightlife in the French Quarter? This is one place to do it. Head to Preservation Hall to view the Preservation Hall Jazz Band in an intimate setting. Purchase tickets online ahead of time to guarantee access to the showing of your choice, or chance it in favor of $15 tickets at the door. BYOB and use the restroom before you arrive, but whatever you do, do not miss this show while you’re in town.

 

MAPLE LEAF BAR – If you’re partying on the westside of the city, nearer to Tulane University, make sure to hit up Maple Leaf Bar. This 70s live music venue sports a tin roof and has seen some of the city’s greatest musicians play its stage. They’ve even had drop-ins the likes of Bruce Springsteen, been the site of a Beyoncé music video, and are home to the North America’s longest running poetry reading.

 

Feeling hung over just reading up on where to eat, drink, and play in New Orleans? Check out What To Do In New Orleans (Besides Drinking) to balance out your vacation.