WHAT TO DO IN RIOJA, SPAIN

La Rioja is the wine region of northern Spain and somewhere I had virtually never heard of until I was headed there for work. Getting there isn’t exactly a cake walk from The States as it requires flying into Madrid and then either driving 4 hours to Logroño, the capital, connecting and flying to Bilbao to drive an hour and a half, or chartering a smaller plane into Logroño’s small airport. Yet this incredible part of Spain is certainly worth the journey.

So what is there to do in Rioja, you ask? Read on for a round-up of the 5 things you must do on your next trip to wine country.

1. GO WINE TASTING

La Rioja maintains the romance and charm of a small, rural town, while entertaining some of the most talented wine makers in the world. Home to over 600 wineries, it is known for its bold, earthy red wines and is host to an incredible variety of Tempranillo, Grenache, and Graciano wine, all at a remarkably reasonable price. Controlled by the DOC, the Denominación de Origen, and it is the most highly regulated wine in the world, which means you will almost never taste a bad bottle.

Some of the most highly regarded wineries in the region are centered around the town of Haro. Check out my post on the best wineries in the region to decide where to go!

 

2. GO TAPAS TASTING

Venture out onto Logroño’s Calle Laurel, Travesía del Laurel, Calle San Agustin, Calle Portales, or any of the other dozen streets at the city’s historic core after 9:00pm and you’ll find yourself shoulder to shoulder with locals, sipping fabulous glasses of delicious cheap wine and enjoying all the tapas they can stomach. Don’t get bogged down in one spot, as it’s all about variety here. The sheer number of tapas bars in this decidedly local town can be overwhelming, but I’ve eaten my way through quite a few in the hopes of pointing you in the right direction.

1. PULPERÍA LA UNIVERSIDAD – Enjoy octopus in all its forms! Whether fried or dressed only with olive oil, you can’t go wrong.
2. ANGEL BAR – Order the tower of garlic mushrooms, topped with a single shrimp. This decades’ old recipe is not to be missed.
3. BAR SORIANO – Not tired of mushrooms yet? Head to Bar Soriano and order the famous El Champi for yet another tower of mushrooms and garlic on bread with a single shrimp to crown it.
4. JUAN Y PINCHAMÉ – Order the brocheta de piña y langostino and be prepared to be wowed by this pineapple and prawn combo.
5. TORRES GASTROBAR – A bit more modern than some of the other tapas bars, Torres does a mean kobe beef medallion, paired with blistered shishito peppers and salt flakes, which is an absolute must. It is some of the best meat I’ve ever tasted.
6. EL CANALLA – Whatever you do, make sure you order the patata asada crujiente con pica pica, which is a baked potato, coated in salt flakes and stuck with a small baster full of warm chorizo oil. This potato is to die for – but try to remember to let it cool down before digging into the center. Last, but certainly not least, sample the explosión de huevo, literally an “egg explosion.” This little guy packs a punch with a hen’s egg yolk wrapped in Iberian pancetta and a crispy sheet of potato. The locals are not to be doubted when they tell you to pop the whole thing in your mouth or risk ruining your top, as we learned the hard way. In order to avoid the explosion of egg on your clothes, eat this one in a single bite.

 

3. EXPLORE ON FOOT

Rioja is riddled with cobblestone streets and fortressed medieval towns. All of which are worth exploring! Briones offers a hilltop perch over rolling acres of vineyards and a gorgeous old church and central town square. Laguardia is a medieval walled city that is mostly pedestrian and full of charm and winding side streets with a hidden bakery or two. Haro is much more populated than Briones or Laguardia, but is just as charming and is conveniently located near many of the best wineries. Make your way to Plaza de Paz in the spring to catch giant storks nesting on the gorgeous wire-topped gazebo. Logroño is the largest and most populated of the towns on this list, but a stroll down the Calle Portales will take you to a fabulous plaza lined with outdoor bars and cafes and towered over by a stunning cathedral. A walk over any of the city’s three bridges also affords beautiful views of the Ebro River that the city was built around and more opportunities to find nesting storks!

 

4. VISIT THE TIERRA RAPAZ BIRDS OF PREY CENTER

This center is home to a staggering number of unique birds of prey. Even as someone who thought they did not like birds, I was immediately enthralled by owls, falcons, and hawks I had never seen pictures of, let alone seen in person. The center assists with rehabilitating birds and carrying out aviation research, but they also put on shows and allow guests, under the supervision of the trainers, to hold some of the birds. Holding a whopping 12 pound golden eagle at Tierra Rapaz is up on there on my list of most incredible experiences.

 

5. TAKE A ROADTRIP

Northern Spain is a highly-underrated section of the country. Basque country, as it is called, is an incredibly unique place that feels separated from other parts of the country. With its own language, the aptly-named Basque language, and its distinctive font, the once turmoil-ridden north now stands a land of culture, pintxos, and brisk seaside towns. Many companies offer bus tours leaving from Logroño or Haro, or you can rent a car or hire a driver for the day.

BILBAO – just an hour and a half from Logroño, Bilbao is one of the culture capitals of Spain. From its world-class chefs to its incredibly diverse architecture to its unparalleled museums (including a Guggenheim), it is not to be missed by the culture-lover.

 

SAN SEBASTIAN– this sleepy, surf town has some serious San Francisco vibes, with its chilly water ways and adorable bars, but it also maintains centuries of architecture and culture that San Fran lacks. It has an unreal number of Michelin-star restaurants! Foodies and those looking to relax by the seaside should make their way here for the weekend.

 

SAN JUAN DE GAZTELUGATXE (Pronounced “gass tay loo gat chey”) – A literal Game of Thrones set, this crumbling fifteenth century monastery atop an island over the Bay of Biscay is all kinds of beautiful. Getting there requires a 20 min hike to the start of the 242 monastery steps and a 20-30 min uphill hike out, but the views are worth it. It has become more popular since Game of Thrones, so be prepared for some crowds, but don’t let them deter you from getting to the top to ring the monastery bell three times and make a wish! Reward yourself with a beer at the end of the hike out at one of the two restaurants at the entrance.

 

 

YUSO & SUSO MONASTERY – These two incredible Augustinian monasteries are about an hour outside of Logroño and are both open to visitors. While Yuso remains a functioning monastery, Suso is now solely ruins. There is also a lovely hike between the two of them that is more like a gentle 20-30 minute walk. If you’re not feeling the exercise, take the hike down from Suso instead of up from Yuso. Both are also accessible by car. Yuso, home to the original 11^th century text that contained the first Spanish word and the origin of the Rioja region’s name, even has an attached hotel!

 

To plan your trip, check out these tips on where to stay in Rioja, Spain!

Love this post? Save it to your travel Pinterest board!